RELATED: The Skin-Care Glossary Every Woman Needs Here’s everything you need to know about the popular procedure.
What Is Microneedling?
Microneedling is a cosmetic practice that’s used to treat a number of skin issues. “It’s been practiced for more than 20 years in some way, shape, or form,” says Manish Shah, MD, a board-certified plastic surgeon in Denver. “With the evolution of the equipment and techniques, microneedling has become more prevalent within skin-care practices.” You may have heard microneedling referred to as collagen induction therapy, skin needling, or percutaneous collagen induction, Dr. Shah says. The idea is to improve the way the skin looks and feels. According to Shah, microneedling can help with these concerns:
Acne scarsFine linesWrinklesEnlarged poresHyperpigmentation and sunspotsLost elasticityUneven skin texturesStretch marksUneven skin tones
RELATED: 10 Things Your Skin Is Trying to Tell You — and How to Respond In most cases, microneedling is done in a doctor’s office, though there are also at-home options available (more on that below).
How Does Microneedling Work?
Microneedling involves puncturing the skin with small needles, according to Emory Aesthetic Center. If you’re having the procedure done in a dermatologist’s office, the skin will likely be numbed before treatment to eliminate or at least decrease pain and discomfort, Shah says. “And then a penlike tool named a dermaroller is utilized in order to insert tiny stainless-steel needles into the skin to cause microinjuries or punctures,” Shah says. As a result of these tiny abrasions, the skin amps up collagen production in order to heal, according to a study published in March 2017 in Dermatologic Surgery. “The goal is for the damage caused by the needles to stimulate your body to send healing agents in the form of elastin and collagen to the area of treatment to repair the skin,” Shah says. The treatment will take between 10 and 20 minutes, though you’ll need to buffer in more time if you’re receiving topical anesthesia, according to a study published in the July-August 2016 issue of the Indian Dermatology Online Journal. Shah says there are usually multiple sessions required, spaced one month apart. The needles will be inserted deeper into the skin at each following session, since the skin will become thicker and more able to withstand a deeper penetration over time. RELATED: 9 Things to Know Before Getting Laser Resurfacing Therapy
Skin Benefits of Microneedling
The main benefit is increased collagen production; collagen combats wrinkles, and collagen levels naturally decline with age, according to the Cleveland Clinic. “Any intervention that encourages increased collagen synthesis can make skin look and act younger,” Shah says. A study published in August 2018 in The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology had study participants undergo four microneedling sessions one month apart. After the final treatment, they saw significant improvements to lines, wrinkles, skin texture, and skin laxity. Microneedling can also help treat acne scarring because the needles can break down hardened scar tissue and encourage it to rebuild, according to the July-August 2016 Indian Dermatology Online Journal study. A study published in the July-September 2019 issue of the Journal of Ayub Medical College, Abbottabad explored the effect of four microneedling sessions on 50 people with acne scarring. After two months, everyone saw improvements, no matter how severe the scars were to begin with. Finally, a small study found that microneedling can help minimize the appearance of stretch marks, with marked to excellent improvement noted in about 44 percent of the study participants following three monthly sessions. RELATED: How to Prevent and Treat 8 Common Skin Problems
When to Expect Results From Microneedling
You’ll likely see results from microneedling almost immediately, Shah says. “As soon as the microwounds are created within the skin, the body’s wound-healing processes respond to heal them,” he says. Peterson Pierre, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Thousand Oaks, California, says your skin may look plump and radiant for up to two weeks following the treatment. The best results, however, can take six to eight weeks to appear. That’s when the increased collagen effects become evident, Dr. Pierre says. Shah says that most of the time you’ll need more than one session, but since everyone’s needs are different, you’ll need to consult your doctor to determine the best treatment plan for you. The condition of your skin matters as well. Shah says that fine lines and wrinkles might call for two sessions a year, burns or stretch marks may require five, and acne scars are somewhere in the middle. RELATED: 10 Ingredients That Can Help Turn Back the Clock
Microneedling vs. Other Cosmetic Surgeries
Like microneedling, chemical peels can improve texture, fine lines, pores, acne, and acne scars, and usually require multiple treatments, Pierre says. “Laser treatments can also provide similar benefits but can do so more rapidly [than microneedling],” he explains. “Depending on the laser, you may end up with more downtime but require fewer treatments.” According to a study published in March 2018 in Dermatologic Surgery, microneedling is a good alternative to laser skin resurfacing and deep chemical peeling because it offers significant results with a quick recovery and few side effects. Pierre adds that you may find radiofrequency in combination with microneedling. This is like microneedling on steroids, he says, and can deliver dramatic results when it comes to treating acne scars and wrinkles. “It is definitely uncomfortable,” he adds. “However, you get to the finish line in fewer treatments.” RELATED: Can Sipping Bone Broth Make You Look Younger?
Side Effects of Microneedling and Who Should Avoid It
According to the March 2017 Dermatologic Surgery study, some redness or mild irritation can appear in the first few days — that’s just the skin recovering. The redness should go away within three days. You might also notice that your skin feels tight, swollen, dry, or sensitive to the touch in the days immediately following the treatment, or it might flake away within the week, Shah says. Microneedling is generally safe and effective, but it’s not recommended for people who take or have had radiation in the past year, are pregnant, have a skin disease, or have a history of scarring or poor wound healing, according to Emory Aesthetic Center. Shah adds that people with active infections or open wounds should wait until their skin heals before trying it. RELATED: 15 Burning Questions About Retinol, Answered
Where to Get Microneedling Done (and From Whom)
“Microneedling is a medical procedure and really should be performed in a board-certified dermatologist’s office,” Pierre says. “This is your face, after all, so you want it in the best hands so you can get the best results while minimizing any side effects.” That means you’ll need to steer clear of medical spas, where doctors may work but they aren’t necessarily board-certified dermatologists, who must undergo 12 years of education and hands-on training to hone their expertise, notes the American Academy of Dermatology. Check the doctor’s credentials — they should be certified by the American Board of Dermatology. Pierre adds that it doesn’t have to be the doctor who performs the procedure. “Any staff member in the dermatologist’s office who has been properly trained and supervised by the doctor — for example, a nurse practitioner, physician assistant, registered nurse, and in some states, aestheticians and medical assistants — can be qualified to perform these treatments,” he says. Board-certified plastic surgeons are also equipped to perform microneedling treatments. RELATED: 6 Fascinating Facts You Probably Never Knew About Your Skin
How Much Does Microneedling Cost?
An in-office treatment will set you back somewhere between $100 and $700, depending on the size of the area being treated, Shah says. Though it’s most commonly performed on the face, microneedling can be done on other parts of the body, too, such as the neck, décolletage, arms, and legs.
How to Prepare for and Recover From the Treatment
There’s no special preparation needed, but there are a few precautions to take. Pierre says to talk to your doctor if you’re on blood thinners, since they can increase bleeding after the procedure, and if you’re prone to cold sores, you’ll want to be treated with an antibiotic to prevent an outbreak. Recovery is minimal, though people with sensitive skin should be careful when applying moisturizers and serums. “After the treatment, your skin will be inflamed and more sensitive than usual,” Shah says. RELATED: A Detailed Guide to Getting a HydraFacial
DIY Microneedling: Should You Try It?
Not willing to shell out $100-plus for an in-office treatment? There’s a crop of products aimed at allowing you to perform microneedling on yourself at home. These DIY dermarollers are typically available for about $30 to $200. But don’t expect the same results you’d get in an office setting. The needles on these devices are shallower and therefore have limited ability to stimulate collagen production, Pierre says. The at-home version needles are typically less than 0.15 millimeters (mm) long compared to 0.5 to 2 mm long for medical tools, according to the July-August 2016 Indian Dermatology Online Journal study. Pierre says these at-home tools do have some benefits, though: They’re more affordable, enhance exfoliation, and help products you apply afterward (such as hyaluronic acid and vitamin C) penetrate deeper into the skin. “You may achieve brighter skin at best but minimal skin rejuvenation,” Pierre says. If you decide to go this route, Pierre suggests applying even pressure while rolling the device in multiple directions around your face. Be sure to clean the tool thoroughly — not doing so can result in infection, Pierre says. Follow the cleaning instructions specific to your device (usually it involves rinsing the roller in soap and water and soaking it in isopropyl alcohol). DIY microneedling is not a complete waste, but “for more dramatic, long-term results, microneedling is a better option than a store-bought roller device,” Pierre says.
